Sojourn: Days 7-16: March 15th, the Ides

We left the Gila Wilderness on March 7, and drove the twisty, narrow mountain road down into Silver City. I don’t recommend trying this with anything larger than Pippin! After doing the usual chores (groceries, gas, propane), we stopped at what must be one of the coolest coffeeshops anywhere, Tranquilbuzz Coffee House, for a scrumptious latte and snack. I highly recommend stopping by and checking out the great art and musical instruments. I saw a 4-string Gibson guitar I covet! I had one just like it that burned up in our house fire in 1979.

After a quick stop overnight at Roper Lake State Park near Safford, AZ, which was a nice enough campground, but had an overwhelming stench of sewage wafting from the lagoon, Alan and I drove northwest toward our next stop at Roosevelt Lake. Having been here several times over the years, we had a favorite campsite in mind, and found it empty. It is high above the lake on a bluff, surrounded by 500′ cliffs and awesome views. We’ve been here ever since.

We’ve been spending our time hiking most days, trying to get into better shape. Tonto Basin is a huge area, with numerous Wilderness areas, and a couple dozen trailheads. Some, such as in the Ancho Sierra Wilderness, still have 3′ feet of snow. We got turned back by deep snow (for our second time in 5 years) trying to reach Abbey’s Way, a trail Edward Abbey made when he was working at the nearby fire tower. Others, like the Jug Trail into Salome Wilderness, are warm and green. The Hells Hole Trail was stunning and little traveled. The wet weather has brought on a superbloom of poppies, and whole hillsides are covered in orange.

We took one day to drive up to Payson to get groceries and talk to the rangers there about hiking the Highline Trail. March is usually the best time to backpack this 55 mile iconic National Scenic Trail, but this year’s unusual wet weather has turned much of it into a mud-fest and the small creek crossings into raging torrents. We hope to do at least part of the trail next week, but are watching the weather closely. (It’s raining right now). Tonto Creek, which flows into Roosevelt Lake from the north up on the Mogollon Rim, has been in flood stage for weeks. There are many residents who live in a small camper/mobile home community called Punkin Center on the far side of the river who have been unable to cross it (there is no bridge, but 3 wide fords that are usually passable).

The river that flows into the lake from the south is the Salt River, and it is also flooding, making it possible for rafters to put in (which doesn’t happen every year, apparently). The lake leaves through the Roosevelt Dam, which, as dams go, is quite lovely. https://www.usbr.gov/projects/index.php?id=242

Our hikes this week have had the purpose of adding mileage and weight to our packs. Our personal best has been 8 miles with 20+#. Not quite a full pack, but getting there. We went up the Tule Trail into the Superstition Wilderness, across a huge, deep arroyo with cows, and climbing up under some castle-like peaks.

Another hike was up on the Arizona Trail off of Mills Ridge. It is a steep climb with amazing views.

But we also love to spend time relaxing in camp. Pippin has been wonderful: warm and comfortable, even in the rain. The views from up here are amazing, and Alan has been cooking some five-star meals. We spend time writing, poring over maps, eating, sleeping, and, at night, watching movies on the laptop with Starlink.